General Info

Distance - 1067 km
Duration - 15-25 days
Highest point - 3811 m, Koi-Djolu Pass
Lowest point - 770 m, Bishkek
Difficulty - (1-10) 7
Asphalt - epx 400 km
Trail (singltrack) - 10.9 km
Rig - I was ridding gravel adventure bike

The main, longest and highest ridges of the Celestial Mountains of Kyrgyzstan extend along the geographical latitudes. The largest valleys are stretched along the latitudes, respectively. The largest and most densely populated valleys of the country are located one in the north - Chui Valley, the other in the south - Fergana Valley. The two largest cities are Bishkek and Osh. Most of the roads between the valleys run along meridians. The same applies to roads that lead to high mountain pastures.
The mountains divide the country into north and south, and this has influenced the localised cultural peculiarities that have existed since ancient times. Many people in the country have to travel from north to south or back when travelling around the country. And it is always connected with crossing high mountain passes.
There is one asphalt road from Bishkek south to Osh, Pamir and Batken. Some cycling travellers use it to move from north to south.
I have made the route mainly on dirt roads, along the internal routes used by local people for their household needs and economic activities.
The route idea and this beautiful name came to me in the summer of 2023. Since then I have decided that I would try to devote some of my time to building new routes. The Celestial Divide is my biggest route-building project to date.
Here is the route I share with you.
It is a natural extension of two world famous cycling routes in Kyrgyzstan: Tian-Shan Traverse and Pamir Highway. If you plan to ride the Tian-Shan Traverse then after finishing it in Bishkek or at the Kegety Pass, you can continue on the Celestial Divide and then from Osh hit the trail south along the Pamir Highway.
The route is built based on already described segments of the underlying accessible, known and proven routes, eg. Tian Shan Traverse, Expedition Alay and SRMR (2021, 2022 editions). Some of the sections I have travelled earlier by bicycle, some by car. There are only three segments left to describe, there is very little information on them, less photos and as it turned out navigation platforms build the trail on one of the sections erroneously.
I will focus on these three segments in this description. Scouting them was one of the major tasks of the expedition.

The start is in Bishkek, the final point is at Base Camp of Lenin Peak and Tulpar-Kul lake. The actual finish is in Sarytash, from where I returned by hitchhike to Osh and then by plane to Bishkek.

Why Celestial? Celestial is an English transcript of Tengri. Tengri represents the Heavenly Father or the eternal blue sky, symbolizing divine power, the source of life, and a connection between humanity, the nature and eternity. Tengri is God for nomads of Eurasia, Turkic and Mongolic people. Tengri Tagh (Tau) is original ancient name of the Mountains of Heaven.

*Special thanks to Giraffe Coffee, a coffee roasting and brewing company, for supporting the expedition.

Map & GPX

Segment 1

From Kyzart Pass to the foot of Tyuz Ashuu Pass

I based my plan on the trek that Komoot generates automatically. Following this trek led us to a small narrow gorge where dozens of goat trails were visible on the southern slope. The slope was steep, so it was unrealistic to climb up there. We returned to the point of our descent on the way down after Kyzart Pass. There was a shepherd's yurt where a family was living. They told us which way to go down. There is no road, only a singletrack. The descent was not difficult, not long, and captivating, ending at a bridge over a small river called Bazarturuk from where the climb to Tuz-Ashuu starts. Study segment's track through the link below.

Segment 2

From Uch-Terek to Kyzyl-Unkur via Shyldyrak Pass 3044m

Heading out of the Ketmen-Tyube Valley into the Fergana Valley, you'll first hit the lower Kargysh Pass 1961 m, there is a chunky road to the pass. The road over both passes was built during the high-voltage grid construction; they put a double-track across the passes, but it's not in great shape right now. It's covered in stones, small rock chips and sand and just too steep to roll up the Kargysh Pass. Same goes for the greater Shyldyrak Pass. In a lot of sections, it's all washed out, covered in stones and really overgrown with grass. It's just too steep to roll up. The ascent and descent of Shyldyrak Pass was done by hiking with my bike on both sides. Study segment's track through the link below.

Segment 3

The gorge of the Isfayrmasy River and the Koy-Djolu Pass.

Tenizbay valley and the summer pastures are lying at the foot of the Koy-Djolu and Tenizbay Passes. Livestock farmers from Uch-Korgon and Kyzyl-Kiya move their herds there every summer, as well transporting all their supplies and equipment in their vehicles. A double-track runs along the entire gorge of Isfayramsy River. The journey starts in Uch-Korgon town. Ridding is long but not overly exhausting; in some places, rare, short switchbacks are hard packed with stones and rocks, so I had to walk and push my bike over those sections. Otherwise almost all sections are rideable. One of the bridges was destroyed by a landslide in the spring of 2024, so I had to bypass the area along a single-track on the front slope. Local shepherds had warned me about it before I reached the bridge. However, in order to be sure of my way, I had to survey the area around the bridge before proceeding along the singltrack. Approaching the switchbacks just right before Koy-Djolu Pass, the road was excellent, and the gravel on the serpentine was of high quality. The descent posed no particular difficulties, with the road surface in good condition all the way to the village of Kyzyl-Eshme.

Highlights

• Every single pass along the route is a highlight in itself:

1. Kegeti Pass – 3765m
2. Kyzart Pass – 2664m
3. Tuz-Ashuu Pass – 3228m
4. Chil-Bel Pass – 3267m
5. Kyrk-Kyz Pass – 3223m
6. Tör-Jailoo – 2465m
7. Dzhamanby Bel Pass – 2195m
8. Tuzduu-Suu Pass – 1971m
9. Kargysh Pass – 1961m
10. Shyldyrak Pass – 3044m
11. Koi-Jolu Pass – 3811m

• A singletrack trail between Kyzart Pass and Tuz-Ashuu Pass.
• Panoramic views of Son-Kul Lake from the rocky cliffs of the northwest shore.
• Crossing two Son-Kul passes in a single day.
• A trek up the Kokomeren River leading to the Kyrk-Kyz Pass. Long, tiring, but captivating.
• Endless climbs and descents along the route from Toluk to Torkent.
• The challenging Shyldyrak Pass. Abandoned roads, slow ascents, and tricky descents.
• A descent along an excellent gravel road for a fast downhill ride. Stunning views of the lush walnut forest on the mountain slopes.
• Spectacular views of Kok-Jangak.
• A crossing through the desert on the right bank of the Aravan-Sai River.
• The climb to the Koi-Djolu Pass through the Isfayram-Sai River gorge. A pass impressive in scale, with a classic serpentine road featuring numerous switchbacks. The pass has several “summits,” each resembling a separate pass.
• A traverse of the Chon-Alai Valley, followed by an ascent and descent to Achyk-Tash little plateau and the mountaineering camps. The vast, dry, windswept Chon-Alai Valley lies between the Celestial Mountains and Pamirs, offering mesmerizing views of the massive ice formations cascading down the northern slopes of the Kyrgyz Pamirs.
• Tulpar-Kul Lake, surrounded by hundreds of small lakes scattered across the Achyk-Tash Plateau of Kyrgyz Pamirs.

Overall difficulty

The route is not technically difficult. Aside from the Shyldyrak Pass, where the two-lane road on the switchbacks is almost unused, eroded, overgrown with grass, and covered with stones, the other 3,000-meter passes offer fairly good road conditions. Kegeti is the most challenging of them.

Important information

• Before Departure: Obtain a permit to visit border areas. The Achyk-Tash Valley, home to the base camps for climbers of Lenin Peak and the nearby Tulpar Lake, is within a border zone that requires special authorization for entry.
• Highway Precautions: Exercise caution when traveling on the highway from Torkent to Üch-Terek (Sargata), as it is busy with traffic. It is recommended to ride on the shoulder. Alternatively, consider hitching a ride from Torkent to Üch-Terek (Sargata) to avoid the congested stretch. The same goes for the route between Uzgen and Osh. I rode along the roadside. The main road itself is extremely busy and noisy. Komoot suggests a detour from the village of Sadyrbay through Madaniyat — you might prefer that option to avoid loud and heavily trafficked main highway.
• Surmatash Reserve: Passing through the gate of the Surmatash Reserve in the Isfayramsy River Gorge is free. Visitors are typically only asked to record their name and entry time upon passing through.
• Damaged Bridge: A bridge in the Isfayramsy Gorge was destroyed by a landslide in March 2024. To bypass this section, take the higher trail on the right slope. The slope is steep, and the trail is narrow, so proceed with caution and care.

Camping/Lodging

Most segments of the route are well-documented by other cyclists. Google Maps, Komoot, and RWGPS list numerous camping locations. Here, I will only highlight my own camping spots. Of the 16 nights I spent on the journey, four were indoors, and two were in yurts on the jailoo (summer pasture), while the rest of nights were wild camping.
During three of my tent camping nights, I faced hordes of mosquitoes:
• The 7th night by a spring above the village of Sargata.
• The last two nights in the Chon-Alai Valley.
I was glad to have brought the inner tent, which offered protection from the insects.
In Uch-Korgon, there are no hotels or guesthouses. Locals informed me of this, and neither Google nor other apps do not provided information on accommodations in the area. I learned from locals that any local mosque might offer overnight shelter, though I did not use this option.
The areas around the cities of Kyzyl-Kiya and Uch-Korgon are densely populated, so finding a suitable camping spot may take some time.
After descending from the highest Koi-Jolu Pass of the entire route I had enough food to not make a detour to Doroot-Korgon which is the biggest village in the Chon-Alay Valley and administrative center. There are a couple of hotels in the village. I stayed in one of them during my previous visit. But not this time. I spent two overnights, camping in the valley and finished my travel in the village of Sary-Tash on my 17th day.

Below are the coordinates of my camping spots and lodging:
1st night: 42.509680, 75.089165; https://maps.app.goo.gl/8WsKXJjmd4e2FfZE8
2nd night: 42.137674, 75.260584; https://maps.app.goo.gl/rn3oQ3txNfQqrgrJA
3rd night: 41.988224, 75.119153; https://maps.app.goo.gl/ApbL5xWXegQKP85d7
4th night: Guest House in Куйручук: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JjiAw2gwcfEKR8dcA
5th night: Sheperd’s yurt, 41.895511, 73.956896; https://maps.app.goo.gl/TG91MM55NCop8kC26
6th night: Jamanby Bel Pass: 41.907175, 73.457023; https://maps.app.goo.gl/1oWSozjjEjRN1U8Z6
7th: at the spring: 41.709109, 73.172498; https://maps.app.goo.gl/N5h7xGk1xoZUMGub9
8th: Sheperd’s yurt: 41.604502, 73.028984; https://maps.app.goo.gl/qjqvWXhgPHErvjwTA
9th: CBT Guest House in Кызыл Ункур (Kyzyl Unkur) tel.+996 778 938678: 41.376012, 73.070685; https://maps.app.goo.gl/k5RqhExgP6VF3khNA
10th: 40.982808, 73.184504; https://maps.app.goo.gl/2hYcsXG97phVynwbA
11-12th night: staying in house with relatives
13th night: invited to stay in house of local resident in Uch-Korgon
14th night: 39.786350, 72.151860; https://maps.app.goo.gl/aNuh76jGUsauAu116
15th: 39.552246, 72.278148; https://maps.app.goo.gl/gefS1mrZgs98XqgA9
16th: 39.679706, 72.906657; https://maps.app.goo.gl/K4TizHp4WKbZG4256

Food/Water

• On the way to Kegeti Pass: Several villages lie along the route to Kegeti Pass, making it easy for resupplies. Be prepared for an overnight stay before the pass. After crossing it, you can reach the first village by the afternoon.

• After descending from the Kegety Pass, you’ll find yourself in the wide Kochkor Valley. On the way to Kyzart Pass, part of the route follows a paved road passing through four villages. Each village has shops, and two of them—Kyzyl-Dobo and Mantysh—have particularly good stores with a wide selection of goods

• From Kochkor Valley to Jumgal Valley via Lake Son-Kul: This section requires extra food supplies, as there are no stores inbetween. The last opportunity to stock up is in Kyzyl-Döbö, which has a couple of good stores. The next store is in Kuiruchuk Village, after descending from Chilbel Pass and leaving the Son-Kul.
• Chaek: This village offers numerous large and small stores where you can stock up. It also has bank offices and ATMs. It is advisable to prepare for at least two camps and cycle over three passes, as stores in smaller villages along the way are very limited.
• Torkent to Üch-Terek: Avoid spending too much time in Torkent and proceed to Üch-Terek, which has many stores and cafes. Stock up on enough comfortable food here, as the journey continues through two passes—Kargysh and Shyldyrak—toward the walnut forests of Kyzyl-Ürkur Village with several shops.
• Water Source: On the southern slope of Kargysh Pass, there is a spring (link: Google Maps location).
• Jalal-Abad Foothills: Stores in the foothill villages south of the range are limited, so plan accordingly.

• After Osh, the route out of the village of Mangyt to Sarykandy—about 25 km—runs through hilly, arid terrain that feels more like a desert. Don’t forget to stock up on water in Mangyt.
• The route after Sarykandy goes through several villages with numerous shops for resupply before you reach Kyzyl-Kiya and Uch-Korgon towns with lots of shops for stock up at least for two days before the biggest and the last climb over Koi-Jolu Pass
• In the gorge of Isfairamsy River the river itself was my main source of drinking water. Filter water from the river.
• There are two shops in the village of Kyzyl-Eshme with the limited resupply. You may want to continue to Doroot-Korgon for resupply and logging. I had enough food with me to camp at the main road next to the village of Kuzul-Eshme and make a last push toward Lenin Peak Base Camp and Lake Tulpar.

Springs location along the route:

• Kyzart Pass, 42.089440, 75.147204 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/R9szBsVPUUYV5eAh8
• Tuz Ashuu Pass, 41.988793, 75.120023 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/nDNCRBW7pNF3mmho7
• Chil Bel Pass, 41.845074, 74.844521 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/DytDezirvRbkT1SN8
• Bel Aldy Village, 41.926636, 73.282454 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eas8X7eKW1arciEi9
• Djar-Bulak spring, https://maps.app.goo.gl/7Qd6r93cyhBxCGWS9
• Kargysh Pass, 41.650599, 73.103524 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/xorAH4k5wB5EYCpq6
• Shyldayrak Pass, 41.618969, 73.067578 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/BS5NFKE5RbHsiS4h8
• Kok-Djangak, 40.983721, 73.184725 ; https://maps.app.goo.gl/GXPbp6s4xozncgmF6